sucmanh
2600
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0
I made a bad solder joint. To fix, i guess I must cut out the copper tee. What are my options? I think instead of a copper tee, i can put on 2 female sweat on each end, and find some kind of pex-a tee? I just don’t know what it is….It’s such s tight space that soldering is a pita
OverMyDadBody
Why not use compression fittings instead? Afaik they're simple to install and less prone to fail or break.
NomDeImguerre
It is what it is. Just, you know, ...solder on.
Elsoyyo
Stop the drips. Re-solder the fittings.
plinkey
plinkey
ComoSeIguana
elecvette
Use a sharkbite. No soldering
Lionheart4G
I have never been able to successfully sweat copper without leaks. Sharkbite is the only way I can do at least some of my own repairs.
omfglmfao
find exact place water is leaking out ( should be a pinhole or some gap in the solder ), mark it on the pipe with a marker, shut off water, open the valves at the sink ( or whatever ), if you can drain the water out of the area to be fixed -- great, otherwise, wait until the dripping stops ), heat the joint near the mark until the solder (shiny silver stuff) is liquid it will pull to hot point ( small propane torch is fine -- if you can add solder great ), let cool, close valves, turn water on
omfglmfao
videos on best way to solder exist, but 1. sanding outside of pipe / inside of joint to be soldered, 2. using flux, 3. heat pipe from below where fitting meets pipe, but mostly on fitting / apply solder from top at the junction of pipe and fitting and let the pipe and fitting metal contact melt the solder, not the flame ... when pipe is hot enough it will melt solder and heat will pull it all the way around and into the joint creating a good seal
skapanda616
Google "Sharkbite fittings"
skapanda616
They're push fit. More expensive, but sometimes worth it in tight spaces.
rudiboy2000
Push fit tee.
lawrencevilleconcrete
That looks frustrating—could be a drywall tape or seam issue behind the paint. A bit of sanding, patching, and repainting should help smooth it out! Check this out https://www.lawrencevilleconcrete.com/stamped-concrete.html
Strostkovy
Drain the pipes and resolder
hackller
drain all thr water out, wire brush the area until clean, plenty of plumbers flux, heat then resolder! i had to do that in the ceiling once!
skipweasel
Make sure you do get all the water out - it'll be a bugger to solder if there's still water as it won't get hot enough.
hackller
*the
sucmanh
If you heat it up again it will loosen up to be removed?
hackller
not if you only heat the end you have a leak on! mush be a clean joint. no water in pipe!
TheBunnyPants
There is a thing called a shark bite repair tee. Get that and some shark bite couplings a foot o copper and then assemble it. You may be able to cut cleverly enough to not need the couplings and extra copper, but better to have and not need it.
TheBunnyPants
But that's a quick and dirty fix. Easy enough that the repair usually lasts 3-5 years unless something gives it a serious whack. Otherwise yeah cut and replace. Alternatively there is some special repair tape that cures like concrete epoxy and seals water. Ask your local plumber shop