Well, depending on how much of the upper portion you've drywalled, I'd consider putting furring strips on the lower block, but building out the upper section to match the strips. Then you can just drywall one section, and not have a useless 3" ledge everywhere
Thank you. So pretty much do the same in the lower section as what was done in the above section? Furring strip, foam panel, vapor barrier (ie. plastic sheet?), then drywall?
Also, if I replace drywall with some sort of wall panel (i think they’re plywood), do we still need the pony wall setup? Is drywall better than plywood?
You still need it. Water sitting on drywall=bad. Water sitting on wood = bad. Wood will hold up better but its about the black mold it can host- its bad for YOU. Stand-off/deadspace, insulation in space between stone and studs, then vapor barrier on interior portion (other side of studs from stone) of studs followed by drywall ( better than plywood due to insulation, fire supression and noise supression, in addition to being easier to paint without showing lumps and grain ).
Also, only use greenboard or basement rated drywall, obviously. You could also consider some sort of wainscoting panels/wood ledge for the lower part. Easier to take off/reuse when there's the inevitable water issue.
No, you'd need furring strips still, at least. I wouldn't use HDF anything in a basement, too prone to issues with moisture. The main benefit of a wood wainscoting look is you can take it apart to inspect/fix things, versus drywall that has to be cut out and mudded/sanded/dust everywhere.
MattK824
Well, depending on how much of the upper portion you've drywalled, I'd consider putting furring strips on the lower block, but building out the upper section to match the strips. Then you can just drywall one section, and not have a useless 3" ledge everywhere
ChanceVLuck
I like the brick. I'd paint it though.
Bystandr
You shouldnt have drywall directly against concrete or block. You can use a foam sheet, but ideally frame a pony wall that stands with a
Bystandr
small gap off that wall. This lets the stone sweat and dry. Poly/vapor barrier stapled to studs, then drywall screwed to said studs.
Bystandr
Otherwise you may find, where warm air contacts your cynderblock and stone, water will condense and run down.
sucmanh
Thank you. So pretty much do the same in the lower section as what was done in the above section? Furring strip, foam panel, vapor barrier (ie. plastic sheet?), then drywall?
Also, if I replace drywall with some sort of wall panel (i think they’re plywood), do we still need the pony wall setup? Is drywall better than plywood?
Bystandr
You still need it. Water sitting on drywall=bad. Water sitting on wood = bad. Wood will hold up better but its about the black mold it can host- its bad for YOU. Stand-off/deadspace, insulation in space between stone and studs, then vapor barrier on interior portion (other side of studs from stone) of studs followed by drywall ( better than plywood due to insulation, fire supression and noise supression, in addition to being easier to paint without showing lumps and grain ).
Bystandr
PS: you're welcome and good luck !
MattK824
Also, only use greenboard or basement rated drywall, obviously. You could also consider some sort of wainscoting panels/wood ledge for the lower part. Easier to take off/reuse when there's the inevitable water issue.
sucmanh
Are you saying those wainscoting HDF panel can just be applied directly onto the blocks?
ME2BNS12
I would personally use wall-framing studs if I were you
MattK824
No, you'd need furring strips still, at least. I wouldn't use HDF anything in a basement, too prone to issues with moisture. The main benefit of a wood wainscoting look is you can take it apart to inspect/fix things, versus drywall that has to be cut out and mudded/sanded/dust everywhere.
sucmanh
Now that makes sense!