pwag
85581
1390
18
***UPDATE*** Swapped the caps today and reinstalled....and it didn't work.
The trouble lights at the bottom work, so that's something. A user told me they thought my VCD (the blue badass parts) was bad because the getters (the burn looking marks on the glass) are showing that at some point the VCD lost vacuum. BUMMER! IT was worth a shot. I was into the CAP replacement about $12 or so. I can't recall. It was well under $20. I'm not sad I tried. Now I have to find a replacement.
If anyone knows of a lead I'd appreciate it. I am a member of all the Reatta groups. East Coast Reatta has them...but the $500 dollars. 0_0 Which...is probably fair, but god damn.
Thanks fellas!
***********************************************************************************************************
This is what it should look like when it's done being a temperamental little shit.
Digital Dash, GM Buick Reatta 1989. Dead board?
The axial capacitor (second from the left) is bulging. I read these things have a 30 to 40 year life span...I want to replace them all. I think they're easy to source.
This looks like heat damage. The car is from the PNW - I suspect moisture could have played a part. There was mildew on the foam pad between the dashboard acrylic and the outer trim.
So that could be moisture damage - thoughts?
I cannot find that little bastard (dead middle of screen, reads 4692 N831 E B C).
So that component I cannot source. Hopefully there's some sort of engineer tribal knowledge that someone can bestow upon me.
tunabrick
I have nothing to contribute other than to say this is an awesome way to spend your time and I commend you for doing the thing. Good luck!
Flawededge
EBC is marking what the legs do. Emitter base collector. And it's a transistor in a TO92 package. At a loss for a data sheet though
meencontreconunarusaquesabiaquenataliaoreiroerauruguaya
Yeah.. Try that things that the others guys say
Dukenukemx
You don't have to get the exact part, just get one that has similar properties. Any capacitor will work so long as it has the same values.
Dukenukemx
The uf has to be the same but the volts can be higher. The transistor just has to have the same pin setup.
Dukenukemx
I replaced a capacitor on my friends 2007 Prius for his dash and it was a bad smd solid cap. I replaced it with a regular 100uf cap & works.
Zephrman
Show us the car, you beautiful whore
iamjackscompletelackofcompassion
probably need to replace every one of those caps, they're probably crap.
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iamjackscompletelackofcompassion
Good luck, you’re very brave
iwannaspeaktothemgr
Handed phone to the dude that works for me. Started speaking in tongues.Knows whats up and how to fix it. Not sure how to put you 2 in touch
pwag
Via here or on telegram @pwag1
ihatethetv
The transistors and solid state components should be fine. You’re on the right track. Start with the caps.
jinbee
Post this in /r/AskElectronics
pwag
Done!
iGotFOLDERS
Please do another post if you ever get it sorted.
Nightcaste
#5 this kind of heat discoloration isn't necessarily worth worrying about unless the board is delaminating.
pwag
Thank you.
Nightcaste
I would suggest changing all of the electrolytic capacitors first, and hooking the board back up in the car. The transistors are usually ok
wnddrake
Based on what I found, the "4692" is a re-mark or custom. This includes 4692 and 4687. These should sub fine with a 2N2222 or MPS2222A.
wnddrake
Also, early Suburbans and other GM vehicles had issues with these same parts blowing up in the HVAC switchboard causing no A/C.
pwag
this pig? https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ON-Semiconductor/MPS2222A?qs=ZpPixqFcBtwG6mBBCksxmg%3D%3D
jackhunterjones4
roboticKittenTamer
anotherusernamed
pwag
In a nutshell
JCBeastie
#3 Most likely "getters". It's a deposited film of reactive metal that absorbs any gas that gets in. Maintains the vacuum in a VFD.
pwag
Thank you.
guitarfourtysix
FYI my 2000 wagon I plugged Bluetooth Scanner ELM327 in my OBD and d/l Torque Lite HUD app and at night and had all specs Heads up Display
Silentwidow
Not sure if that car is OBD1, def not OBDII, but OBD1 is fun, you get to trip it and it flashes a ton and you have to count the flashes!
guitarfourtysix
Lay the phone on the dash it automatically mirrors and you see right through it on the windscreen. Badass
pwag
Which would be awesome - if OBDII hadn't been standardized in 96.
guitarfourtysix
lol well you got me there. Hey if it isn't powering up, don't forget to test the big white ceramic resistor. It can be jumped (few seconds)
pwag
Thanks for the heads up! I'll check with my multimeter.
bigreddave33
I had one in my 1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme LS if that helps
pwag
It might!
StillNotYouTube
THIS...is a 1989 Buick Reatta
aThingWithTheStufAndTheJunk
I forgot about Twilight Delay.
sombrerohorsewagon
You fuckers and your fulfilling hobbies.
pwag
Sorry. I'm trying not to go insane during lockdown... I've made a knife, a kydex sheath for my it, my multitool & a boyscout knife1/2
pwag
got an old vinyl plotter/cutter running & picked up 3d printing... I'm not special! You could find something fun to do as well!
BurnieCinders
reddit.com/r/askelectronics ?
pwag
Did that to hedge my bets. I almost didn't make this album public, glad I did. Got more feedback & help here!
BurnieCinders
rad project mate, looking forward to the final post.
thrashingcows
Upvoting for awareness since it’s an old car, and you’re trying to fix the electronics!
pwag
Thank you.
Maigou
I laugh because I consider an old car to be one predating electronics (other than clocks)
FartmanMD
Alrighty then so you’re going back to the 30s are you. Because pretty much everything after that had at least basic electronics
analogguy
Given that it has a touch screen CRT, and CRT'sm tend to run off higher voltages, it is possible it is a custom packaged 2SC4692. That 1/?
analogguy
is a 1500V transistor, which might be needed for running the CRT. Can you post some pictures or get some idea where the trace on the 2/?
analogguy
right hand side (under the C marking) runs off to? That might give an idea as to what it did.
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analogguy
Unfortunately, can't see where it heads to under that heat sink
Nunyajonesinc
Ah, the 80's GM Disco Dash. Had it in my Cavalier Z24
guitarfourtysix
LOL. I get it.
Dukenukemx
Had it on my 90 Chevy Beretta, and it was digital too. Not hard to fix if you know basic electronics.
WARHAMMER405
I had a '92 Town Car and it had the digital instrument panel.
UramboTauro
ZeroDucksToGive
MadMeeks
Always had a fondness for the Reatta
pwag
I'm going to be way more fond of it when I can see my gas guage.
username12345678
readyplayer0ne
It has touch screen CRT in the dash too, yeah?
pwag
Yes, next repair :(
readyplayer0ne
godspeed
grizel
That's a transistor, probably npn, maybe you could substitute it for a 2n2222a and see how it goes. What makes you think it's dead?
pwag
Doesn't light up when I start the car...
grizel
I meant what makes you think that particular transistor is dead.
Micro2112
That c - leg looks kinda sus. Kinda looks like something brushed to that cap
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grizel
If it was brown flakes it could have been flux residue
SURPRISEscience
Hey! Just a heads up from a wrenchy in the PNW, if there's mildew in the car it definitely is going to have water damage elsewhere as well.
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SURPRISEscience
Ah noice! You done an undercarriage audit? If it came from WA they use some pretty heavy salt.
SURPRISEscience
Ah noice! You done an undercarriage audit? If it came from WA they use some pretty heavy salt.
pm1001
Do the caps first. That's what a guitar amp tech would do
pwag
The leg of the transistor is corroded through. So I have to do both
cyberimg
Agree with others. Fix transistor with blob of solder, redo, or at least remove and test, all capacitors first.
cyberimg
Get a cheap tester to test capacitors and transistor: https://www.ebay.com/itm/202995746189
iamjackscompletelackofcompassion
It's probably ok. do all the caps first.
SaturnineCult
If it's not totally cut, I would just re-solder the legs first. Anyway start with all the electrolytic caps (Those with + and - marked).
Drakitomon
Switch to polypropylene caps and forget electrolytic forever.
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SaturnineCult
Yeah that. If you even can find the same capacitance/voltage caps, they will be bigger and you probably can't fit them there. Just don't.
Drakitomon
Electrolytic leak and bulge. Poly is actually smaller than electrolytic, has a better heat rangeand is the usual swap done for ECM, TCM &PCM
FireSpittingVacuumCleaner
That's a bipolar junction transistor, you can usually replace them with one with similar properties. E B C is its pinout. Maybe 2SC4692?
bpwyndon
ImKindaDone
"Emitter" "Base" and "collector" its showing which of the transistor leads go where.
Vergenbuurg
jethroismaxbaer5772
EncomEmployee
Thank you. Signed on to say it's a transistor and you can just cut it off and check it then replace it. Nice work knowing the rest.
BlairT1
zachleedogg
Why do you suspect there is something wrong with this BJT?
somnif
I would've thought that too, but I can't find any 2SC4692's in TO92 packaging, they're all in TO3PFM
imostlymadethisup
What this guy said
chowfornowbrowncow
EBC = emitter, base, collector
SophieClockwise
LucianoIntorno
This is parody right? I feel like this is parody, but he'll I've been wrong before. Sometimes I can't tell my dingles from my sprockets.
jwillr86
Fucking perfect response
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MetaSomma
It's either that or a bipolar platinum capacitance junction. Get a model X Æ A-12
Anarchduke
why all the downvotes thats funny as shit
Th4t1dude
I get that it's the kid, but I downvoted so the OP doesn't confuse this for data and waste time trying to buy a musk baby.
E34generation525i
Because someone made a detailed and informed post asking for help. Leave the jokes for other posts and let OP respond to actual answers.
khora
But the helpful answers are already there and it isn’t like you can find an X Æ A-12 to put in by mistake.
meencontreconunarusaquesabiaquenataliaoreiroerauruguaya
Isn't that Elon musk's kid?
pwag
Allegedly
WeylandYutaniCorp
E stands for emitter. B is base. C is collector. It's a transistor with a -neg, +pos, -neg junction. N 831 is the part code.
Neotic357
I second the suggestion that it's a BJT, should be relatively straight forward to desolder and test it, replacing it is another matter tho
etherfish
I third the comment's reasoning.
HaveANiceFace
You should be able to find the datasheet then look for a similar replacement.
FireSpittingVacuumCleaner
I'm being serious, although the 2SC4692 is just a guess. It's important to get the pinout right. Max values should be at least the same 1/2
AlfakaGordonShumway
I would read the 4692 as 46th week 1992 manufactured.
Keddar
It came out of a car from 1989, so...solid outside-the-box thinking, though!
NotThatOneTheOtherOne
He's talking about the replacement part, which would be newer, right?
grizel
Probably not 2sc4692 since I could only find it in TO3, not TO92
somnif
I wonder if the "4692" is a packaging code, as that is a TO-92 transistor. But I can't find any transistors named "831" either.
FireSpittingVacuumCleaner
and how close the other properties must be depend on its function in the circuit. 2/2
sunyudai
.... I'm trying to figure out if username checks out or not.
BigTex1
If it does then OP might wants to reconsider taking his advice.
dinon17
Since he's using technical terms and op didn't discredit him instantly... take it as you will.
frogsnot
This made me snort-laugh. Well done.
cyberimg
Emitter *seems* connected to large ground plane, that *hints* at a NPN transistor, but can you trace where all 3 legs are connected too?
cyberimg
But as mentioned elsewhere, if only because of leg-corrosion, fix with blob of solder and/or desolder to measure specs.
FireSpittingVacuumCleaner
And it has to be a BJT of the same polarity. Its polarity can be determined with a multimeter.
zouwia
A cheap transistor tester is less than $10 from aliexpress, you can use other transistor with same markings to find type and values.
FireSpittingVacuumCleaner
If it works, that is.
petpet3d
The emitter is attached to what looks like a ground plane, so it's probably an NPN
pwag
How do I test that?
rv6502
But if the transistor is blown/damaged/almost-dead a tester won't give you the correct values. If you can't find BE & BC polarity then RIP
rv6502
With diode tester: if B-E or B-C conduct both ways or not at all then it's blown.
Buttorfleoge
Remove the part from the PCB (use copper thread to suck the solder) multimeters have special transistor ports
AtlasRook
But you will need to take it out of the circuit first.
petpet3d
The emitter is attached to what looks like a ground plane, so it's probably an NPN
Buttorfleoge
Don't use one of those suck pneumatic things, they can damage the board
AtlasRook
Solder wick baby