Coolercity
1558
30
2
Mar 25, 2025 4:38 PM
Coolercity
1558
30
2
mirrorz
Remove all the studs, then add a double 2x6 or 2x8 header vertically under the top plate, then double or triple up 2x4s to pack out the jack studs on the sides. Probably overkill but better than stairs collapsing.
glovelyday
Take those two studs and "sister" them on to the studs on the left and right sides of the stair. That should be fine.
SpqrMcmlxxxvi
What's wrong with side entry?
PutThePRNDLinD
I'd probably put in a 3rd overhead brace, possibly rigid metal, then sister new 2x4s onto the outsides to support it.
PutThePRNDLinD
I wouldn't expect it to fail immediately if I didn't, but I'd expect it to shift/sag over time.
imgurble
Just knock them out, there’s already a header supporting the stairs
messedabout
Wall bearing header. Or just keep the center as an opening. It’s only good for a broom closet or storage
messedabout
Just add a little closet door to it after you drywall the area. If you want to tart it up
pyaremohan
Couple of blows with a hammer should do it.
Cavalrysword
A couple of pounds of C4 oughtta do it.
WinstonWinifredWoofington
An architect that can reliably tell you how to support the structure above it to keep it from being damaged, collapsing or damaging structures it is also attached to?
harleyhank
A chainsaw.
Threemorewishes
Google king studs, jack studs and window or load bearing wall header.
soulseekbob2320
Not worth the effort for storage. Use it as it is. Will still fit lots of storage.
MilkStoutOnTap
Those look like they are load-bearing supporting the stair landing. I’m not sure I would remove them.
unremarkableasterisk
I am more interested in the expanding foam where the stringers meet the riser.
RaftinHippy
I agree. That looks like pex A and there'd be no reason to foam the connections
jetbrainsmono
Fastener free design
YoungBlood401
Inspection pass hack.
shivacat
Shhhh….
heisman86
Sound reduction? Not speaking from experience, just something that could make sense.
Drakesfear
A hammer or saw. If you don't care about support. If you do, you need a beam and supports on either end. I'm not an architect, but my dad was a framer for 29 years. The beam should be 1" thick per 1 ' of span. And a 4x4 support per side should be good. But that's non binding advice
RoboUnicornFishBalls
See above. It's good advice but you should definitely get a contractor in. The load has to be for like 300lbs or so ik the UK if you do some math on wood thickness, span and load you'll get the answers.
Do not fucking use ai for this, it's high school calculations.
WienerBeener
CUT THEM OUT! CUT THEM OUT! CUT THEM OUT!